Today Kat
and I decided to do some hiking, starting with something easier than one of the
volcanos – Laguna Chicabal, a crater lake at the top of an extinct volcano
which glows green when the sun is on it. We took the bus through San Martin
Chile Verde ( there are like four different san martins, why this one’s
nickname is chile verde I have no idea) out to a tiny pueblo nestled under the
mountains. The driver let us out at the stop for la laguna and we set off. It is possible to grab a ride with a truck up
to the entrance to the hike but we decided to walk.
After two hours of steep uphill ascent, the landscape had changed from small houses and farms under the sun to
clouds so thick at times we could barely see 15 feet ahead.
Small boys carrying
gargantuan loads of wood with their heads, or leading various animals, would emerge
out of the mist and gawk at the sweating gringas. One car passed us, but the
road was so bad that about 15 minutes later we passed the car and its owners,
now attempting to walk to the laguna (the woman in heels). At one point we
passed a small boy and his father with their loads of wood and their machetes,
and the father stopped and spoke to us. He was definitely not speaking Spanish, so I just said, no hablo Mam (the local mayan
tribe) and then he turned to my friend Kat and said in Spanish, What country
are you guys from? She does not speak Spanish? As out of the two of us, I am
the one who speaks more Spanish, Kat just gestured at me. We had a short
conversation with him, but I couldn’t understand much because he kept speaking
in mam. Who knows.
We paid the entrance fee and
continued our steep ascent, the air becoming both thinner and cleaner, and the
forest more and more thick along with the clouds. I kept expecting to get hit
with a blow dart or something for trespassing - Laguna Chicabal is sacred for
the local tribes and different rituals are performed there. When we finally got
to the lake, we could barely see it for the clouds but they move so quickly
that the lake soon cleared off. It is amazingly beautiful and peaceful and I
could see why the lake is sacred. Clouds move and transform across the lake,
coming down from over the trees and spreading across the water. In the sun it
is supposed to be a brilliant blue green but the clouds have another enchantment
all their own.
There’s not
much else to say for today! We took the bus back. While waiting I saw this.
Now I’m
exhausted, and since I can’t charge my computer at the apartment, I’m at
Baviera ( a local coffee shop that reminds me of caffe vita in seattle) I hope you all had a wonderful day!
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